Today’s Russian assault on Ukraine and its capital Kyiv brings to mind my one experience of visiting that city, in 1965. The city was then behind the Iron Curtain, part of the USSR, and had its Russian name, Kiev. The featured image is the one photograph I took at that time in Kiev, showing the River Dnieper flowing through the city – the fourth largest river in Europe.
This visit was part of a combined Oxford/Cambridge Universities chess tour, venturing behind the Iron Curtain, because that was where the strongest chess players then were.
After interesting encounters with friendly West German and dour East German border guards, we began our tour in Prague, Czechoslovakia, and were quite surprised to find that city reasonably free and spirited, a bit like a rather subdued Vienna.
We then moved on to Ukraine, its capital Kiev and the Black Sea resort of Odessa. Differences from Western Europe were more marked. We were still clearly in Eastern Europe, but the lively spirit was a bit more subdued, and material conditions much worse. I was pursued half way across the city in an attempt to persuade me to sell my pursuer a ballpoint pen!
Finally, we arrived in Moscow, where the best chessplayers were. This no longer seemed like Europe. The people seemed drab and depressed, and there were empty shelves and queues in the shops. Despite some beautiful buildings, this seemed a more fearful place, the capital of an unhappy empire.
Just 3 years later, 1968, I was delighted to see the emergence of the Prague Spring, when Alexander Dubcek led in establishing more liberal reforms. This seemed to correspond with that feeling I’d had in Prague in 1965 – its seemed natural for Prague to be more aligned with its sister Vienna. Then I recall the Soviet tanks rolling in to Prague to crush the reform movement. How terrible to see that beautiful city of spirit crushed by the Soviets. After that, Czechoslovakia remained controlled by the Soviet Union until 1989, when the Velvet Revolution peacefully ended the communist regime, around the time of the fall of the Berlin Wall – a time when anything seemed possible.
Although a founding member of the USSR in 1922, Ukraine regained its independence in 1991 following the dissolution of the USSR. In 1995 Kyiv became an authorised spelling of the capital’s name, and was strongly adopted recently because of the associations of ‘Kiev’ with Russia. Now, it seems, that Ukraine is suffering a similar event to that crushing of the Prague Spring in 1968, 54 years later. For reasons unclear to us in the West, Mr Putin seems to have decided that he will not allow Ukraine to continue its path of alignment with the more liberal Western Europe – it must again be forced under Russian control, in an apparent attempt to restore the supposed glories of that USSR.
We weep for them, and the unnecessary and untold miseries that will ensue.
3 thoughts on “1965 Kiev”
Well said, Barry. We weep for Ukrainians and we also weep for all the Russians who know this is wrong and are helpless to do anything about it. The anti-war protesters in cities throughout Russia show much courage. They will all undoubtedly be arrested. We were in Russia (USSR) for a few weeks in 1970, not in Kyiv (Kiev then), but from the Finish border to Moscow and then west through Smolensk and Minsk into Poland. We had very similar experiences to yours. Everything and everyone in Russia we encountered were drab and depressed, with empty shelves even in Moscow. Poland seemed so lively and welcoming of strangers in comparison, and when we got to what was then Czechoslovakia, even post-1968 the spirit of the people was evident. In Russia it seemed crushed. God forbid this should all be replayed because of the ego of one man.
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Thanks, Jane. Your experience obviously similar to mine. We learn a lot just by being there and seeing the people. Looks like Putin is creating a new Cold War.
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I keep thinking to myself, “so this is how it happens, throughout history.” These massive power struggles and power shifts never have anything to do with all the people, who are the ones who suffer as a result.
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